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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.